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http://abcnews.go.com/lifestyle/fashion
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28 Aug 2016
Gregory Peck

By Lourdes M. Font, Ph.D.

Coordinator, Masters Program in Costume Studies

New York University

As a form of cultural expression, fashion always reflects the

deepest concerns of society. But unlike literature, music or art,

fashion communicates indirectly -- employing a language and a

logic of its own. Fashion's power, to capture the present and

even to predict the future, is only revealed with the passage of

time.

What does fashion reveal about the Cold War, now that it is

over? With the benefit of hindsight, it becomes clear that like

World War II, the Cold War was fought by men and women in

uniform: the grey flannel suit of corporate America, the blue

cotton suit of Maoist China, the trenchcoat of spies on both sides

of the conflict, and the blue jeans of the young people

everywhere who protested against it.

At the end of World War II, returning veterans traded in their

military uniforms for civilian clothes, but the flamboyance and

swagger of the wartime "Zoot Suit" gradually drained out of

men's fashion. By the mid-1950s, the fashion "look" sported by

Gregory Peck in "The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit" was Moda Feminina Online a perfect

example of the new civilian uniform -- a utilitarian tailored

envelope that guaranteed social respectability. But it is in

women's dress that the meaning of Cold War fashion is most

clear.





Theatre of Fashion


Theatre of Fashion

In the spring of 1945, the world of high fashion lay in ruins.

World War II had cut the Parisian haute couture off from Britain

and from the source of its most devoted clientele -- America.

During the early '40s, the American fashion press had turned its

attention to native designers, who perfected styles suited to

the American way of life -- from the sharply tailored suits of

Gilbert Adrian to the inventive and comfortable sportswear of

Claire McCardell.

The Theatre of Fashion exhibition, which opened in Paris in 1945

and toured Europe and America the following year, was

organized by the Parisian couturiers' association to benefit

French relief efforts, but it was also intended to revive the

fortunes of the couture.



Evening gowns


Against backdrops provided by French theatrical designers,

miniature mannequins displayed the work of couturiers who had

been unable to mount full-scale collections in the face of

wartime shortages. Heightened by the miniature scale, the

unrivalled workmanship of the couture and its contributing

crafts was undeniable. Visitors to the exhibition could also

witness the co-existence of two distinct silhouettes: the padded

shoulders and short straight skirts that had prevailed during the

war, and the softer, longer, fuller clothes that had already

surfaced on both sides of the Atlantic. It was this second

silhouette that would become the famous "New Look" of 1947.



Dior suit


'New,' but improved?

Indelibly associated with the debut collection of Christian Dior,

the New Look was enthusiastically promoted by the American

fashion press as signalling the return of luxury after the

privations of war. But some American women, who protested

against it during Dior's triumphal tour of American department

stores, sensed its true nature.



A look inside the New Look, provided by Harper's Bazaar in

1947, reveals layers of interfacing, horsehair, padding and

built-in corsetry -- a hidden, inner armor. The New Look was

actually an old look, recalling the corsets and crinolines of Victorian

women. Although it indulged a longing for luxurious fabrics, it

denied women comfort. But it also armed them to wage a new,

covert war -- one which would be waged with every weapon in

the arsenal of traditional femininity.



Sears girdles


Throughout the 1950s, the armor that was built into women's

clothing and the underwear beneath it transformed their bodies

into virtual weaponry. Girdles smoothed the hips and thighs into

the sleek shapes of rocket missiles; bras with pointed cups

aimed the breasts squarely at the world.

The hard curves of the fashionable ideal implied a sexuality that

was rigidly contained, but potentially explosive. In the persona

of the Blonde Bombshell, epitomized by the cultural icon of

sexuality -- Marilyn Monroe -- in such classic movies as "The

Seven Year Itch," it did explode.



Marilyn Monroe


Totalitarian fashion, tovarich

The launch of the New Look also created the orderly fashion

universe of the 1950s, in which the dictates of Paris were

reported in the press and translated at every level of the

industry, from ready-to-wear to the neighborhood dressmaker.

Paris fashion celebrated luxury for its own sake, as the natural

consequence of an idealist love of beauty. The mere existence of

such luxury seemed to certify the superiority of the capitalist

system.

In the consumer economies of the West, women were

encouraged to aspire to high fashion. Implicitly, those behind the

Iron Curtain were deprived of it, but so strong was its power to

seduce, that in the popular imagination any red-blooded Russian

female would melt at the sight of a Paris dress, as in the

Hollywood film "Silk Stockings."

In this ironically totalitarian fashion state, the press played a

vital role. In the hands of legendary fashion editors Carmel

Snow and Diana Vreeland, it too could be dictatorial, and it

helped perpetuate public perception of the fashion industry as a

world of secrecy and intrigue, in which designers jealously

guarded their new collections from spies, saboteurs and

knock-off artists.

The real threat, however, would come from a different quarter.

There was another side to the fashions of the '50s, related to

the wartime development of American sportswear, the postwar

spread of the suburban lifestyle, and the beginning of the

Americanization of Europe.

http://www.cnn.com/fyi/backgrounders/cold.war.fashion/index.html
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27 Aug 2016
France is where you'll find the House of Dior ... and we don't mean the late Christian Dior's fashion business -- we mean his actual HOUSE. Seth Doane takes us on a tour:

There was plenty to catch one's eye as a seemingly endless line of Mercedes deposited fashionistas, models, and an Oscar-winner.

But even actress Charlize Theron agreed the real star of this night descontos cupons was the house.

charlize-theron-dior-244.jpg

CBS News

"I'm living in a bit of a magical fantasy world right now," she laughed.

Why? "Well, just walking through here, you can't help but try to image things that happen in rooms, and my imagination just goes crazy."



Just like legendary designer Christian Dior's imagination did when he created this opulent retreat in the French countryside.

"I've had, like, the biggest smile on my face since I've gotten here because it feels like it's filled with joy," said Theron.

Theron -- the "face" of Dior perfume for more than a decade -- lent her star-power earlier this month to the grand re-opening of Dior's Chateau de la Colle Noire, nestled in the Provence region of southern France, in the town of Montauroux.

christian-dior-undated-photo-244.jpg

An undated photo of fashion designer Christian Dior.

CBS News

"He created this place for his own happiness," said Dior historian Frederic Bourdelier.

"Even all of these decades later, Dior still looms large here," said Doane.

"Yes, yes," Bourdelier said. "We are really proud of our founding father."

Dior bought the chateau in 1951, and started work on it. But then died unexpectedly just about six years later.

The house fell into other hands until three years ago when the company bought it back, and started restoring it to the way it was.



The detail-obsessed Dior had sketched out an entryway floor just like he might've sketched a dress -- skills he demonstrated for Edward R. Morrow on CBS' "Person to Person" back in 1955.

Morrow: "Now, just what is it that you're sketching there, Mr. Dior?"

Dior: "I am sketching a suit for this spring ... a big collar, and also neckline. You see?"

Morrow: "Do you always sketch as quickly as that?"

Dior: "Yes, I have to do it."

By using old plans and photographs, and buying back original furnishings at auction, the house is now part-museum, part-tribute -- and a way for the company to reconnect with its roots.

interior-house-of-dior-620.jpg

An interior view of the Chateau de la Colle Noire.

CBS News

Dior was not always surrounded by such grandeur. A 1940 letter on his desk reveals just how far he had come after moving with his family to the nearby town of Callian with few prospects.

"He's jobless, and six years later he would create this company," said Doane.

"Yes," Bourdelier said, "and seven years after, he's the king of fashion."



Dior founded his fashion-forward company in 1946, injecting glamour back into women's clothing in the wake of World War II.

"Just after war, he anticipated the desire of people to come back to the Golden Age of couture," said Bourdelier.

Dior dreamed up many of his designs at the chateau, gazing out the window at the fields and gardens that inspired his creativity.

It wasn't just the house, but the fields Loja Sucesso Modas and gardens around it that drew him to this place. He had rose bushes planted. "Because this castle was a farm, too," said Armelle Janody.

roses-south-of-france-house-of-dior-620.jpg

Roses planted on the estate of Christian Dior.

CBS News

Today, Janody tends to these roses which only bloom in May. They're hand-picked and used to make the company's high-end perfume, just as they were when Dior lived here.

These gardens are not far from the town of Grasse -- the so-called perfume capital of the world.

"Perfumers used to say it's a 'spicy' rose," said Janody. "There are a lot of different fragrances in it."

At 89, Lucienne Rostanio can barely see, but told us smelling the "May rose" took her back to when she picked flowers for Dior himself in the mid-1950s.

"He wasn't like those city guys," she recalled. "He bought this property and made it so beautiful. Everybody in the village just adored him."



Doane asked Theron what Dior's impact on the fashion world is today.

"I don't think it's a name that you can utter anywhere in the world without people knowing what you're talking about," she replied. "There is an essence that's still surviving through all these years."

At that glamorous grand opening, a dinner table had been set for 180 -- all at one table.

gala-dinner-house-of-dior-620.jpg

A gala dinner celebrating the grand re-opening of the House of Dior.

CBS News

The fragrance of flowers filled the air, and the House of Dior came alive once again.

For more info:

http://www.cbsnews.com/news/the-house-of-dior/
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27 Aug 2016
Chic Vegan Footwear: Green Your Shoes with Stylish Options




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25 Jun 2015
Product Reviews :: Pick Your Shoes Vs Main Source




You heard right, wear sneakers in your wedding. I know that's challenging to get over, and traditionally brides squeeze their toes into your most breathtaking slippers that happen to be only disguised torture devices. Now, Claudia Lindenberger of The Lovely Bride is showing us the way to rewrite the policies to to be a fairy princess back with her wedding sneakers.


Apparently this movement towards sneakers is due to clothier Phoebe Philo who usually is seem wearing sneakers. And not sneaker wedges, but regular athletic type sneakers. So is it time to give that up your impossibly uncomfortable through the roof heels for any set of two comfortable beneficial to your toes sneakers? Not sure where do you start though? Check out these fun sneakers in great colors that may be available at the local Foot Locker or online.


'We worked very closely together with the Disney team so that you can select what characters will come one's from the 890v4 series,' said Josh Rowe,Senior Marketing Manager for New Balance, within a statement in regards to the shoes. 'Cinderella and Goofy resonate on this sort of higher level with Disney fans we wished to be sure these people were the inspiration to the 890v4 designs.'




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Sneakers with rubber soles minimize impact and shock from running, walking, as well as other vigorous activities like climbing and dancing. These give stability and control to stop the foot, ankle, and heel have problems with pain and injury. Some sneakers have even insoles made particularly for flat-footed women to compliment their feet while walking and running. A number of athletic sneakers cater the requirements girls that involve specific kinds of foot support a variety of activities.

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22 Jun 2015

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